Thursday, December 1, 2011

Review: Costumes and Ornaments after the Devata of Angkor Wat by Sappho Marchal



A long lost gem of Asian history, art, culture, fashion & feminine style.
Review by Kent Davis     Amazon link to purchase this book
sappho marchal khmer costumes and ornaments after the devata of angkor wat1 210x300 Review: Costumes and Ornaments after the Devata of Angkor Wat by Sappho Marchal
"Costumes and Ornaments after the Devata of Angkor Wat" by Sappho Marchal. Orchid Press 2005.
Marchal’s visual meditation is a gem to treasure for the images it holds and the ideas it will inspire.
While the topic of Khmer adornment seems to occupy a narrow niche of knowledge, the fact is that it holds great appeal for a broad range of people. Indeed, the worlds of Asian art, fashion, history, jewelry, graphic design, feminine style and culture all intersect in this compact 99 page work.
This book revolves around 41 plates with line art drawings of the “apsara” or “devata” carvings at Angkor Wat in Cambodia. More than 1,800 of these woman were immortalized in sandstone between 1116-1150AD. Some experts characterize the figures as “celestial nymphs” or demi-goddesses called “devatas” but these terms were applied long after the fall of this civilization. The truth is that the identity and meaning of the “devata” remains a mystery.
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Sappho Marchal - Plate XXXI
What is undeniable is the beauty, life and energy the carvings radiate. Some art historians see the Angkor civilization as the pinnacle of artistic expression in Asia. Dr. Paul Cravath of the University of Hawaii elegantly captured the essence of the “devata” when he wrote, “There, with stupendous variety, the Feminine achieved a new level of expression unsurpassed at any time in Asian sculpture.”
In 1927, Sappho Marchal published her original work in Paris when she was only 23 years old. Sappho was in a unique position to study Angkor Wat; her father, Henri Marchal, was appointed the second curator of the vast Angkor site for the French colonial government in 1916. Sappho grew up with these extraordinary Khmer women.
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Sappho Marchal - Plate XV
Seeing the devatas through this young lady’s eyes holds immense value for researchers of art and history alike. Mlle Machal highlights details of their hair, costumes and ornamentation that archeologists, in their mad rush to measure large stones and determine stellar alignments, have never paused to notice. Her sensitivity and attention to detail is refreshing. In fact, there is no other volume that offers this degree of analysis for these important carvings.
Merrily Hansen’s 25 years of educational publishing experience resulted in an excellent translation and flawless plate reproductions for this rare volume’s reprinting.
sappho marchal plate xxx 150x150 Review: Costumes and Ornaments after the Devata of Angkor Wat by Sappho Marchal
Sappho Marchal - Plate XXX
For those interested in Southeast Asian, Thai and Cambodian art this book is indispensable.
But the truth is that this is a beautiful book for anyone.
It offers inspiration in design and feminine style, and a pleasant meditation on one of the most beautiful art mysteries in the world.
Kent Davis is a US-based publisher, author and independent researcher specializing in Khmer studies with DatAsia, Inc. and Devata.org.
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Continuing the Discussion

  1. Review: “The Armies of Angkor: Military Structure and Weaponry of the Khmers” by Michel Jacq-Hergoualc’h | Devata linked to this post on February 14, 2009
    [...] another Orchid Press favorite; the first English translation of Sappho Marchal’s 1927 work, “Khmer Costumes and Ornaments of the Devatas of Angkor Wat”. While Marchal’s book offers a beautiful artistic study, Jacq-Hergoualc’h gives readers [...]
  2. Devata Inventory at Angkor Wat - Ver. 07-25-2008 | Devata - Apsara - Angkor Wat linked to this post on February 16, 2009
    [...] her 1926 study, Sappho Marchal cited 1,737 devata, possibly not counting those partially completed, worn away, or those covered by [...]
  3. Nginn-Karet foundation teaches sacred Cambodian dance arts at Banteay Srey temple | Angkor Wat Aspara & Devata: Khmer Women in Divine Context linked to this post on June 10, 2009
    [...] years drawing the devata. In 1927, when she was only 23 years old, Sappho published her book “Khmer Costumes & Ornaments: After the Devata of Angkor Wat,” which was reissued in English in 2005 [...]
  4. Angkor Wat Interactive on National Geographic | Angkor Wat Aspara & Devata: Khmer Women in Divine Context linked to this post on September 16, 2009
    [...] of research on this site, as well as the work of Trudy Jacobsen, Peter Sharrock, Miranda Shaw, Sappho Marchal, and many other [...]
  5. Kbach: A Study of Khmer Ornament | Angkor Wat Aspara & Devata: Khmer Women in Divine Context linked to this post on November 11, 2009
    [...] Marchal’s sketches of Angkor Wat devata Khmer Costumes & Ornaments: After the Devata of Angkor Wat is a beautiful work studying the Khmer women at Angkor Wat, but this book is a true manifestation [...]
  6. Book Review: "The Armies of Angkor: Military Structure and Weaponry of the Khmers" | Angkor Wat Apsara & Devata: Khmer Women in Divine Context linked to this post on April 30, 2010
    [...] another Orchid Press favorite; the first English translation of Sappho Marchal’s 1927 work, “Khmer Costumes and Ornaments of the Devatas of Angkor Wat”. While Marchal’s book offers a beautiful artistic study, Jacq-Hergoualc’h gives readers [...]
  7. The Women of Angkor Wat - The Cambodia Daily | Angkor Wat Apsara & Devata: Khmer Women in Divine Context linked to this post on August 24, 2010
    [...] 1927, Sappho Marchal, the 23-year-old daughter of Henri Marchal who was over­seeing restoration of monuments at Angkor [...]
  8. Is Angkor Wat a 12th-century Facebook? | Angkor Wat Apsara & Devata: Khmer Women in Divine Context linked to this post on September 29, 2010
    [...] the only study of the female carvings he could find had been made in the early 20th century by Sappho Marchal, the daughter of Frenchman Henri Marchal, then the curator of the temple site. Frustrated but [..

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